13 Jamaica Hotels That Are Not All-Inclusive

Jamaica's international reputation is the all-inclusive resort. The format was popularised here in the 1970s, the large chains built out the north coast, and for a great many visitors the island means a wristband, a buffet and a stretch of enclosed beach.

That is a real and often good product. It is also not what the island's best hotels are.

Jamaica has a parallel tradition of small, independent, owner-run properties that goes back to the 1950s, when the north coast was where the British and American cultural class wintered. Ian Fleming wrote the Bond novels at his house near Oracabessa. Noël Coward lived up the hill from him. Those houses, and the hotels built around that period, are still operating and they are the reason to come here rather than anywhere else in the Caribbean.

The coasts

Montego Bay and the west have the airport with the most flights, the largest resorts and the two great estate hotels on the Hanover coast.

Ocho Rios and Oracabessa, an hour and a half east, have the waterfalls, the smaller historic hotels and the Fleming and Coward houses.

Port Antonio, two hours further east, is the least developed and the most beautiful part of the island: rainforest running to the sea, the Blue Lagoon and rafting on the Rio Grande.

Negril, an hour and a half west of Montego Bay, has the seven-mile beach and the cliffs at the West End, which are two different places.

The Blue Mountains, above Kingston, are coffee country at 1,000 metres and are cool.

The thirteen below are grouped by coast.

Montego Bay and the west

The airport end, and the estate hotels.

Round Hill Hotel and Villas occupies a 44-hectare former pineapple plantation with a great house, cottages and villas, a pool over the sea and a level of understated service that has kept the same guests returning for generations.

Half Moon sits on 160 hectares with a mile of beach, a dolphin lagoon, a golf course, an equestrian centre and a very large villa portfolio. It is the most complete resort on the island.

Jamaica Inn occupies a 890-hectare estate on the Hanover coast around a 1834 great house, with a championship golf course and villas along the shore.

S Hotel Kingston sits in Montego Bay with a rooftop pool, contemporary rooms and a design-led interior at a lower rate than the estates.

Ocho Rios and Oracabessa

An hour and a half east. The historic small hotels.

Jamaica Inn occupies a cove near Ocho Rios with 52 rooms, no televisions, and verandah rooms opening straight onto the sand. It has been operating since 1950 and it is the most quietly admired hotel in the Caribbean.

GoldenEye sits on Ian Fleming's own property at Oracabessa, where his house is still bookable, with villas and cottages around a lagoon and a private beach.

Port Antonio

The eastern end. Rainforest, the Blue Lagoon and almost no development.

Trident Hotel occupies a cliff position with villas around a pool, a black and white interior of considerable drama and a view over the harbour. It is the most striking hotel in Jamaica.

Geejam sits above the coast as a set of houses with a recording studio that a long list of musicians has used, a pool and complete privacy.

S Hotel Montego Bay occupies a hillside above the Blue Lagoon itself with treehouse-style buildings among the vegetation.

Negril

An hour and a half west. The beach and the cliffs.

The Caves occupies a clifftop at the West End with cottages, cave bathing, a spa and no beach. The cliffs and the sunsets are the product.

The Tryall Club sits on the same cliffs with a pool cut into the rock, a good restaurant and ladders into the sea.

Tensing Pen occupies a clifftop position with thatched cottages and a pier, and it is the most relaxed of the three.

The Blue Mountains and Kingston

Above the capital, in the coffee.

Strawberry Hill occupies a former plantation at 950 metres above Kingston with cottages in gardens, a pool with the city lights below and cool nights. It is a complete change from the coast.

What we have left off

The large all-inclusive resorts are excluded, and on this island they are the majority of the rooms and, for many visitors, the reason to come. This article is about the alternative rather than an argument against them.

What to do

Raft the Rio Grande on a bamboo raft poled by a captain, which takes about three hours and is the best thing in Port Antonio.

Swim in the Blue Lagoon, which is fed by underground freshwater springs meeting the sea and changes colour through the day.

Climb Dunn's River Falls at Ocho Rios, which is busy, and go to Reach Falls near Port Antonio instead if you want it quiet.

Do the Blue Mountains: a coffee estate tour, and the hike to the peak at 2,256 metres, which starts around two in the morning to reach the summit at dawn.

See Firefly, Noël Coward's house above Oracabessa, which is preserved and has the best view on the island.

Practical notes

Montego Bay has the most international flights; Kingston serves the east and the capital. The drive from Montego Bay to Port Antonio is around four hours.

December to April is the dry season and peak. Hurricane season runs June to November with the peak from August to October. Summer is hot and much cheaper.

Distances on the north coast road are slow. Internal flights and helicopter transfers exist and save hours.

Questions people actually ask

Are all-inclusives worth it?

For a straightforward beach week with fixed costs, they work well. The island's best hotels are not all-inclusive, which is what this list covers.

Which coast?

Montego Bay for flights and estates, Ocho Rios for the historic hotels, Port Antonio for the landscape, Negril for cliffs and sunsets.

Is Port Antonio worth four hours of driving?

It is the most beautiful part of Jamaica and the least visited. For a second trip, unquestionably.

How many nights?

Seven. Two coasts if you are willing to drive.

If you only book one

Search 4 and 5 star hotels in Jamaica