10 Mykonos Hotels on the Sheltered South Coast, Out of the Meltemi

The meltemi is a dry northerly wind that blows across the Aegean through the summer, hardest in July and August, and on Mykonos it is not a breeze. It can run for three or four days at a stretch at a strength that closes the ferry to Delos, blows the umbrellas off north-facing beaches and makes swimming there unpleasant or impossible.

The island is small enough that the difference is stark. On a meltemi day the northern beaches are whipped and empty and the southern ones are flat and full. Everybody on Mykonos knows this. Almost no visitor books with it in mind.

Why the south coast is the answer in summer

Mykonos is roughly ten kilometres across and the wind comes from the north. The southern coast, from Ornos through Psarou, Platis Gialos, Paradise and round to Kalafatis, sits in the lee of the island's spine, which means calm water, usable umbrellas and the beach clubs the island is known for.

The northern beaches, Ftelia, Panormos and Agios Sostis, are wilder, emptier and lovely on a still day, which in August is not most days.

Mykonos Town, Chora, sits on the west coast and is exposed. It is also the most beautiful part of the island, with the windmills, the lanes and the restaurants, and staying there is a legitimate choice for a trip weighted toward evenings rather than beaches.

The eleven below are grouped by coast.

The southern beaches

Ornos, Psarou, Platis Gialos and round to Kalafatis. Sheltered, flat and where the beach clubs are.

Kalesma Mykonos sits on a headland above Ornos bay with sea views on two sides, a long infinity pool and the most restrained modern architecture on the island. It is the best hotel in the Cyclades.

Santa Marina, a Luxury Collection Resort occupies its own peninsula at Ornos with two beaches, a marina, a spa and the largest grounds on Mykonos. It is the family and group answer.

Mykonos Blu Grecotel Boutique Resort sits directly on Psarou beach, which is the most sheltered and most sought-after sand on the island, with the beach club at the door.

Kensho Ornos occupies a hillside above Ornos with whitewashed cave-style rooms, a wellness programme and a quieter tone than its neighbours.

Branco Mykonos sits above Platis Gialos with terraced rooms, private pools and a short walk down to the sand.

Cali Mykonos occupies a cliff position at Kalafatis on the southeastern coast, furthest from the crowds, with a long pool over the sea and the calmest setting on the island.

Myconian Ambassador Relais & Chateaux sits at Platis Gialos with a spa, several pools and the most complete facilities of the southern group.

Once in Mykonos occupies a headland at Ornos with a small room count, a good restaurant and a design that is more Aegean than international.

Mykonos Town and the western side

Exposed to the wind and the most beautiful part of the island, with the restaurants and the nightlife at the door.

Bill & Coo Suites and Lounge sits on a small beach just south of the town with a pool over the water and a restaurant that is among the best on the island. It is adults-only and the closest good hotel to Chora.

Belvedere Mykonos Hotel occupies a hillside above the town with a pool, a bar that has been a fixture for decades and a five-minute walk down into the lanes.

Semeli Hotel sits in the town itself with a garden, a pool and rooms among the whitewashed buildings. It is the best value for a trip built around evenings.

What we have left off

The northern beach hotels are excluded, and on a calm day those beaches are the best on the island: emptier, wilder and without the beach-club economy. In July and August the meltemi makes them unusable often enough that booking one is a gamble rather than a choice.

What to do

Go to Delos. It is a twenty-minute boat from the old port, it is one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece, and it is uninhabited. Go in the morning and note that the crossing is cancelled when the wind is up.

Walk Chora properly in the early morning, before the shops open and the cruise passengers land. The lanes were laid out deliberately confusing to slow down pirates and they still work.

Eat at the fish tavernas at Kiki's in Agios Sostis, which has no electricity and no bookings, and in the town's back streets rather than on the waterfront.

Do one beach club and then avoid the rest. The island's reputation for expensive sunbeds is entirely earned; agree the price before you sit down.

Practical notes

The airport and the new port are both small and busy in season. Ferries from Athens take two to five hours depending on the boat.

June and September are the best months: warm sea, less wind, fewer people. July and August are the peak in every sense including the meltemi. The island largely closes from November to April.

Rent a car or a quad rather than relying on buses if you are staying outside town, and be aware that Mykonos is among the most expensive islands in Greece by a wide margin.

Questions people actually ask

How bad is the wind really?

In July and August it can blow for several days at a time, strongly enough to cancel the Delos boat. On the southern coast you barely notice it.

Town or beach?

Beach for the days and a taxi into town for the evenings. Town if you want to walk home from dinner and care less about swimming.

Is Mykonos worth the prices?

For the town, the light and Delos, yes. For beach clubs, it is the most expensive version of something available more cheaply elsewhere in Greece.

How many nights?

Four, or three paired with Santorini or Paros.

If you only book one

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