9 Highland Hotels at the End of a Single-Track Road

A single-track road with passing places is the standard Highland road, and it works on a convention rather than a rule: you pull into a passing place on your left, or stop opposite one on your right, and you let the other car through. You do not use them for parking. You lift a hand as the other driver passes.

Anyone who has not driven one before should know that the distances take roughly twice as long as the map suggests, that sheep have right of way in practice, and that in the passing-place stretches of Skye and Wester Ross the traffic in July is heavy enough to make the whole system fray.

Where the Highlands actually are

The Cairngorms, in the east, are the largest national park in the UK: rounded granite mountains, pine forest, Speyside whisky and Braemar. It is drier than the west.

Lochaber and the west, around Fort William and Glencoe, has Ben Nevis at 1,345 metres and the most dramatic glen in Scotland.

Wester Ross and Torridon, northwest, is the emptiest and most spectacular: sandstone mountains rising straight off sea lochs, single-track everywhere.

Skye, reached by a bridge since 1995, has the Cuillin ridge, the Quiraing and Trotternish, and visitor numbers that the island's roads were never built for.

The far north and Sutherland is emptier still, and the North Coast 500 driving route runs around it.

Perthshire and the southern edge is gentler, greener and an hour from Edinburgh or Glasgow.

And the midges: tiny biting flies that swarm from roughly late May to September, worst in still, damp, overcast conditions at dawn and dusk, and worst of all in the west. Repellent with a high DEET content or a head net is not an overreaction.

The eleven below run roughly south to north.

Perthshire and the southern Highlands

The gentler edge, closest to the cities.

Ardanaiseig occupies a Victorian shooting lodge on Loch Awe in Argyll with gardens running to the water, a small room count and a good kitchen.

The Cairngorms

The eastern park, drier and higher.

The Fife Arms occupies a coaching inn in Braemar reworked with a very serious art collection — Picasso, Freud, a Brueghel — through 46 rooms each individually designed. It is the most extraordinary hotel in Scotland and it is not what anyone expects to find in a village of 500 people.

Lochaber and the west

Fort William, Glencoe and Ben Nevis.

Inverlochy Castle occupies a Victorian castle in 200 hectares below Ben Nevis, with a loch, gardens and a formality that has not moved since Queen Victoria stayed in 1873.

Wester Ross and Torridon

The northwest, emptiest and most dramatic.

The Torridon sits at the head of Loch Torridon in a former shooting lodge below the sandstone mountains, with a whisky bar of several hundred bottles and hills straight out of the water.

Skye

Over the bridge. The Cuillin and the Trotternish.

Kinloch Lodge occupies a former hunting lodge on Loch Na Dal, run by the Macdonald family whose clan seat it is, with a kitchen that has held a star and views to the mainland.

Braemar House sits at Colbost on Loch Dunvegan as a restaurant with rooms, in a crofter's cottage, with a kitchen that made Skye a food destination.

Duisdale House Hotel occupies a Victorian house above the Sleat coast with a garden, a good restaurant and views across to Knoydart.

The Three Chimneys and The House Over-By sits by Loch Snizort in a country house on a large estate with a golf course and gardens, near Portree.

Inverness and the northeast coast

The Highland capital and the links coast.

Rocpool Reserve occupies a townhouse in Inverness with a design-led interior and the most contemporary rooms in the Highlands.

Links House at Royal Dornoch sits at Dornoch beside the championship links course in an Edwardian house, with a good kitchen and the sea nearby.

Braemar House occupies a Victorian country house at Contin near Strathpeffer with gardens, a fire and a family operation.

What we have left off

The self-catering cottages and bothies across the Highlands are excluded, and they are how a great many people do Scotland, particularly walkers. They are houses rather than hotels.

What to do

Walk. The Quiraing and the Old Man of Storr on Skye, Glen Coe, and the Torridon hills. Take proper waterproofs, tell someone your route and check the forecast, which changes fast.

Drive the passing places properly, and consider going in May or September rather than July.

Do a distillery. Speyside has the highest concentration; Talisker on Skye is the island's own.

See the Cairngorms funicular and the reindeer herd at Glenmore, which is free-ranging and Britain's only one.

Take a boat. The Small Isles from Mallaig, or the sea eagles off Skye.

Practical notes

Inverness has an airport with UK and some European connections. Edinburgh and Glasgow are three to four hours from the central Highlands by road. The train from Glasgow to Mallaig on the West Highland Line is one of the great rail journeys in Britain.

May, June and September are the best months: long days, less rain than autumn and, in May, fewer midges. July and August are busiest. Winter is dark, wild and beautiful, with many rural hotels closed.

Book Skye accommodation months ahead in summer. The island runs out.

Questions people actually ask

How do passing places work?

Pull in on your left or stop opposite one on your right, let the other car through, and do not park in them.

How bad are the midges?

From late May to September in the west, genuinely bad in still damp conditions at dawn and dusk. Repellent or a head net.

Skye or the mainland northwest?

Skye for the famous landscapes and the food. Wester Ross for emptier roads and mountains that are arguably better.

How many nights?

Seven. The driving eats days and rushing it defeats the point.

If you only book one

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